Surfing - Jay, Paul & Tracey

There's a real sense of anticipation as you're driving, and the closer you get, your heart starts, you know, pounding in you, and you just can't wait for

the first moment where you can see the ocean,

you just really come alive, and it's a really exciting moment.

Jay

If you're a surfer

you can't go half-heartedly

and become a surfer, you're a surfer and that's it, you go for it hard.

Paul

I just love

being in it and being surrounded by it all

and you feel just... so refreshed, like you come in feeling so good just because it's given you so much joy.

Tracey

You know that you can't control it, and that you have no... you can't do anything about it, and you're getting in it, and you could drown. But I just enjoy not controlling it and not understanding what's going on, and I enjoy

being caned by a wave and realising that I'm a mortal

and that it's something bigger than me.

Paul

I feel like it's really significant to be there, and to have

the gift of being able to enjoy the ocean

and that gives me a sense of specialness, and... gives you a sense of value, I guess.

Jay

If I lost the ocean, I'd feel like a part of me was dead,

I'd just... I'd feel like I wasn't living anymore, like it's been such a part of me for so long, that I couldn't give it up. It's like it keeps my soul alive when nothing else can...

Paul